Temples of Kathmandu, part one

Hi everyone,

As I continue to edit my photos, my desire to return to Nepal just grows stronger. I can't really put my finger on one reason or another. I just know that I need to go back. It's not even an option for me.

Anyway, I could go on and on with abstract thoughts about Nepal, but instead, you'd probably be more interested in my photos.

The day before we thought we were leaving for Lukla, the starting village for our trek, (I'll explain that later) we toured a Hindu holy site called the Pashupatinath or Pashupati Temple. This is one of the most sacred Hindu temples in Nepal.



Stairs leading to the Pashupatinath Temple.

Pashupatinath, located in Deopatan, a small town 3 km NW of Kathmandu, is located along the banks of the Bagmati river. The Bagmati River flows next to the temple and is considered holy because it flows into the Ganges.

The importance of Bagmati also lies in the fact that Hindus are cremated on the banks of this holy river, and Kirants are buried in the hills by its side. According to the Nepalese Hindu tradition, the dead body must be dipped three times into the Bagmati river before cremation.

The chief mourner (usually the first son) who lights the funeral pyre must take a holy river-water bath immediately after cremation. Many relatives who join the funeral procession also take baths in the Bagmati River or sprinkle the holy water on their bodies at the end of cremation. Bagmati River is considered to be purifying, both spiritually and physically.



Preparation of cremation ghat in the area used by royalty.

Pashupatinath attracts thousands of pilgrims each year and is off-limits to non-Hindus. Good views are possible from the outside of the temple and this is where we caught a glimpse of the culture there.



Devout Hindus pray from a balcony overlooking the cremation areas.

It is not known for certain when the temple was founded. Tradition says it was constructed by Pashupreksha of the Somadeva Dynasty in the 3rd century BC, but the first historical records date from the 13th century. The ascetic Pashupata sect was likely related to its founding. Pashupati was a tutelary deity of the ancient rulers of the Kathmandu Valley.

It is believed that to die and be cremated at this site will release one from the cycle of repeated births and deaths.



The cremation ground is near the temple and the ashes of persons cremated are sprinkled into the waters of the Bagmati, eventually to be carried to the Ganges. There are two burning grounds separated by a bridge. The Arya Ghat burning ground right next to the temple, just north of the bridge is only used by royalty. The Ram Ghat cremation grounds just south of the bridge is for common people. In the olden days, wives would perform sati, ritual suicide, by leaping into the flames of their husband's funeral pyre and burn themselves to death. This practice has been outlawed since the early 20th century.

While touring this area, we viewed several cremations in various stages. Despite the obvious private nature of the cremation, photography is permitted.



Family members prepare a body for cremation.



Architectural detail on the entrance gate to Pashupatinath.



Sadhu or holy man. Many look simply fearsome, but not all are genuine - some are simply imposters dressed as holy men to earn the tourist dollars.



Viewed through 11 temples within the pashupatinath complex, a 'lingam' image, the male Hindu symbol worshipped as a symbol of the god Shiva, sits within a yoni, the female symbol.



Outlying building have many purposes. This one serves as a home for the elderly.



Residents of the home for the elderly rest in the shade.

After leaving Pashupatinath, we headed for Swayambhunath, otherwise known as the monkey temple. Swayambhunath is one of the most sacred sites of Bhuddist pilgrimage, second only to Boudhanath.

Swayambhunath is also known as the monkey temple as there are holy monkeys living in parts of the temple. They are considered holy because Majusri, the bodhisattva (a being that compassionately refrains from entering nirvana in order to save others) of wisdom and learning, raised the hill upon which the Swayambhunath Temple stands. He was supposed to leave his hair short, but he made it grow long and head lice grew. It is believed that the head lice transformed into these monkeys.






The stupa consists of a dome at the base. Above the dome, there is a cubical structure present with eyes of Buddha looking in all four directions with the word "unity" in the main Nepali dialect between them.

The dome at the base represents the entire world. When a person awakes (represented by eyes of wisdom and compassion) from the bonds of the world, the person reaches the state a bit higher. The thirteen pinacles on the top of it symbolizes that sensient beings have to go through the thirteen stages of enlightenment in order to reach buddhahood.



Each morning before dawn, hundreds of Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims ascend the 365 steps from the eastern side that lead up the hill and begin a series of clockwise circumambulations of the stupa.



Prayer wheels. Traditionally, the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is written in Sanskrit externally on the wheel. This mantra is the resonant vibration that helps tune a human being toward enlightenment energies. The literal translation of the phrase is: praise to the jewel in the lotus.



Amrit sends up some prayers...



The great view of Kathmandu from Swayambhunath



We were supposed to leave the next day for our trek, but that didn't happen. (more later)
Our guides gave us a primer on the rooftop terrace of our hotel the night before we were supposedly leaving. (Notice Swayambhunath in the distance, top left). Here, Danika shows us how to pack light by using one item for more than one purpose. This is her down vest that she also uses as a pillow. In theory, I loved her idea, but I still took my tiny tempur-pedic pillow along. Funny thing about that pillow was that at the below-freezing camping temperatures, it was rock hard and not very comfortable. That down vest/pillow idea makes a lot of sense!



Heather, the other half to Danika, (our guides from Lotus Expeditions) suggests maybe sharing pictures after the trek instead of trying to capture every moment with every camera.



Our group, minus photographer Heather, on the roof of the Hotel Vajra the day before our trek was to begin.



We had a wonderful farewell dinner the night before we were supposed to leave Kathmandu. Dancers entertained us with many colorful costumes.



Each dance and costume represented a different region of Nepal. It was a really fun night and adding to our enjoyment was the Raksi, a Nepali rice wine. If I wasn't so busy drinking it, I would have had a picture to show you. The wine was served in shallow dishes, sort of like soy bowls you would use at a sushi restaurant. Our talented waiter poured the wine from about 3 feet over our heads and didn't spill a drop!



We received our 'third eyes' at the farewell dinner. Kaia, our intern guide, is just so silly (and uniquely wonderful) I had to post this picture.